The Pig's Place at the Thanksgiving Table

When we think about Thanksgiving we immediately associate the meal with turkey, right? Of course the entire holiday revolves around the fantastically golden browned bird. But, I am here to to advocate the role that the pig plays at the Thanksgiving feast. And it might be where you least expect it. It’s in the pie! Or at least the pie crust…

That’s right. I’m talking about lard. Glorious, snow white leaf lard that will grace your table with the flakiest pie crust you've ever experienced. Lard is hardly ever considered anymore in the great crust debate because it’s so rare to find good, fresh leaf lard. Lard is specifically the fat rendered from a pig. Leaf lard, more specifically, is the delicate veiny fat that encases the organs - don’t get grossed out just yet. This is that fat that is rendered very slowed to produce that bright white, non-piggy smelling fat. Lard produced from pigs that are raised outdoors is packed with vitamin D, and is a superior form a fat. So, don’t be afraid to pick up that lard and use it in your crust!

Reminder: Orders for leaf lard should be placed by Monday, November 24th before noon for Pre-Thanksgiving delivery. Supplies are limited!

Here is a basic lard based pie crust recipe that you can use in any number of pies, but since we’re talking about Thanksgiving, I’m attempting to make a pumpkin pie. I say “attempting” because full disclosure: I’ve never baked a pumpkin pie before. I’ve got the pie crust down, but this was my first pumpkin filling. Here it goes!

I tried using Meta Given’s Genius Pumpkin Pie Recipe and added a few more spices. The crust is a simple “pate brisee” using lard in lieu of butter. The recipe is as follows.

For the pumpkin:
1 ¾ cups canned or fresh cooked pumpkin puree
¾ cup sugar
½ tsp salt
1 tsp ground cinnamon
½ tsp ground ginger
½ tsp allspice
½ tsp nutmeg
2 eggs
1 cup heavy cream
½ cup whole milk

For the crust:
2 ½ cups of flour
1 tsp salt
1 cup of lard
about 10 tbsp of ice water

• In a large bowl mix in the flour and salt. Measure out a cup of chilled lard. Using a pastry knife or your fingers, incorporate the lard in the dry mixture until the lard is broken into pea sized balls. Add the ice water a tablespoon at a time stirring gently until the dough just comes together.
  

• Do not overwork the dough. The secret to a flaky crust is the fat staying intact until it bakes. On a lightly floured surface bring the dough into a ball. Wrap it in plastic wrap. At this point, refrigerate the dough for at least and hour and up to a day. You could also freeze the dough and use it on another day.
  
• Pull out the chilled dough and between pieces of wax paper, flour the dough ball and begin to roll out the dough to ¼ “ thick. 
  
• Tip - My rolling pin was MIA this morning when I needed to roll out my dough. In a pinch you can use a clean empty wine bottle as a rolling pin!
  

• Line your pie pan with the dough and trim the edges with a knife. You can get fancy and pinch around the edges for the scalloped look. Return your pie crust to the fridge as you prepare the pumpkin custard filling.
  
• This recipe is unique because you heat up the filling first. It claims to give you a shiny crack free custard. Empty a can of pumpkin into a small pan. Heat the pumpkin for 10 minutes constantly stirring. 
  

• Whisk in all the other filling ingredients to the hot pumpkin. As quickly as possible, pour the hot mixture into the cold pie crust and begin baking in an oven preheated to 400°F for 25 - 30 minutes. 
  
• The custard is ready when only an inch in the center of the pie is liquidy. When you take the pie out to cool, the custard will firm up.
  

I learned a few things as I baked. The type of pie pan you use greatly affects your outcome. Pies in metal pans will cook faster than ceramic pans. I have a ceramic pan so I believe I baked my pie for almost 45 minutes. In the future, I think I would have baked it longer at 350° in my ceramic pan. 

You can see how flaky the lard makes the pie crust as soon as it comes out. The pumpkin custard is silky and smooth, crack free!